Breaking the rules -- nicely

Buster's offers tasty food with a view that is not exorbitantly priced.

By ELIZABETH EVANS
Special to the Orange County Register

With apologies to Jane Austen, it is a truth universally acknowledged that a restaurant with a good view will be better known for what you look at than what you eat. And the bill for a meal at such a place will seem more like a check for annual real estate taxes.

But as with many things, not all universally acknowledged truths are quite so simple. Though they are few and far between, on occasion it's possible to find tasty food with a view that is not exorbitantly priced.

Buster's Beach House, just over the bridge from Seal Beach, is not a fancy place but it does its part to bend that rule. It's open from breakfast through dinner, and water glasses of flatware and buckets of tropical hot sauces sit atop laminated charts on each table. The charts annotated by the fictional Buster - think Tommy Bahama with a good dose of pre-"Last Mango in Paris" Jimmy Buffet - highlight great surfing spots around the globe.

But you won't spend too much time mining the fictional depths of Buster's maps. Every booth in the long, narrow main dining room gives diners a good look out over the bustling Alamitos Bay with the seemingly constant comings and goings of pleasure craft and the occasional evening sailboat race.

Slick, corporate marketing (Buster's is part of the Aloha restaurant group), literary conceits and sailboats aside, I returned after my tentative first visit for the food. On that initial day I chose a Jamaican chicken sandwich ($8.95) from the lengthy menu. White meat chicken tenders are served hot on thick sourdough toast with a generous slather of jerk seasoned mayonnaise. Grilled peppers and onions are also part of the mix, and sandwiches are served with both the peanut-topped napa cabbage slaw and skins-on fries.

I sipped iced tea at noon and wondered what it would be like here at sunset with a frozen Mango Rita ($6.75). So on my next trip I came in time for the sun to slip beneath the sails and sampled that smoo thie-like cocktail.

Paired with selections from the appetizer list the tropical fruit infused tequila drink is a mini-vacation in a blue rimed glass. Appetizers here are designed to be shared. And I don't mean between two, I mean feed-the-masses-loaves-and-fishes-style onion rings ($5.95) are served in the bottom of a bamboo steamer basket, and the dark golden strings burst over the side and cascading onto an oversize serving plate. The thin onions are coated in cornmeal with a slight hint of sesame and are served with a fiery barbecue sauce made with a touch of scotch bonnet peppers.

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The house guacamole, a chunky concoction of Haas avocados, is served either with a variety of lotus, taro, potato and corn chips or with stellar Baja lobster quesadillas ($9.95) ). The latter are made with large pieces of the high-end crustacean and melded between red chili tortillas with loads of stringy jalepeno-flecked jack cheese.

Portions are large. And while entrees should be shared with at least one other person, even soup, such as Half Moon Bay cioppino ($4.95 for a small bowl),would make a satisfying meal. The cioppino, a fisherman's stew similar to bouillabaisse is well done here. The rich tomato broth is filled with basil and garlic. The seafoods: green lip mussel, steamer clam, shrimp, scallops and large hunks of ahi tuna are each cooked just right. The shrimp is so fresh it pops between my teeth when I take a bite.

At dinner wok-seared scallops ($19.95) are plentifully provided and flavored with a mix of Southeast Asian ingredients. I like that the quarter-size bivalves are so sweet and tender. They are tossed with a mild curry, lemon grass and coconut milk sauce and poured over steamed jasmine rice.

Buster's Combo Mumbo Jumbo ($17.95) is fine for meat-eaters. The Balinese ribs, a half rack of them, are lean and come off the bone in a firm bite. The barbecue sauce used on them is less sweet and spicy than that offered with the onion rings. Instead, this sauce is tarted with tamarind and citrus.

Jerk chicken shares the combo plate. The chicken is properly cooked and marinated in the jerk spices. Once again the chefs here do not fear spice. For an All-American snack the Beach burger ($8.25) is a winner. Just remember it's not about the bun, which is a rather dull sesame-topped one. This two-fisted sandwich is about the meat cooked to order and tasting of the fire from the grill and the savory goodness of lean beef. Even though it's served on a sturdy Bolillo bread roll, Pork luau sandwich ($9.95) is best eaten with a knife and fork. The stringy pork is long-cooked in banana leaves and topped with a grilled pineapple and sided with a papaya chutney. Even so, the mound of meat is best for those who really love meat.

If you've wisely shared your meal or not eaten for a month before coming to Buster's, dessert is advisable. The best is Todos Santos ($6.50). This fancy hot chocolate brownie served with a cresting wave of white chocolate and white chocolate-flecked fresh whipped cream topped with a sugar cookie surfer disproves another widely held truth. That one states that the more artifice involved in dessert the less taste it will have - think petit fours.

It's nice to see that some rules are better when they're broken, and that truths,even the universal ones, can be tweaked.

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Pacific Rim Cuisine
Aloha Spirit Beach Front Dining
"Who Could Ask For More?"

"Couple exceptional cuisine with exquisite scenery and the result is bound to be a memorable dining experience." Busters combines its' friendly "Aloha Spirit" with the above in establishing what we consider to be a remarkable contribution to our Culinary Region.

by Wayne Hardin - Editor in Chief
So Cal Food.com


Manila Steamers, New World Chips and Rip-Tide Guacamole, Half Moon Bay Cioppino, Balinese Baby Back Ribs, and Pad Thai Xanadu exemplify Busters' versatile menu of extraordinary Culinary talent. With a focus on what many have reflected to be "Island" cuisine, Aloha Restaurants (Monterey Canners-Jolly Rogers) has graced SoCal with the presence of Busters Beach House and Longboard Bar in two fabulous locations- Seaport Village in San Diego, and Alamitos Bay -Long Beach

We've had the pleasure of sampling both locations, lunch and dinner- announced and un-announced, with waves of dining sensations throughout. Consistency, a vital part of successful restaurant operations, was found abundantly in both locations. Service with "Aloha Spirit" is an understatement, we witnessed a focused mission towards "Customer Satisfaction" - all aspects of our dining experience. As we fathomed the atmosphere and ambiance of Busters, one could not help but taste the sensations of a Coastal Community. Panoramic views of oceanic scenery, bustling murmurs of marina lifestyles, and glimmers of sunshine rebounding off coastal waters virtually onto our laps. As the sun sets, activity within Busters takes on a casual sense of celebration. Live "Beach-Boys" themed entertainment, raised whispers of the days events, with a sense of "Village" unity unlike any we've witnessed before.

We've set the scene, now lets "Check Out da Eats!". Our lunch session in Long Beach consisted of Macadamia Nut Crusted Chicken (a large boneless breast delicatelycrusted with a macadamia nut coating, accompanied by an exquisite ginger soy glaze,served atop an abundant nest of garlic mashed potatoes, with spring vegetablesblanched to perfection), and the Pork Luau Sandwich (a healthy portion of shredded pork- slow roasted in banana leaves for 7 hours!- nestled atop grilled Barillo bread, onions, pineapple, and Maui Chutney, accompanied with the best Asian Cole-Slaw I've
tasted world-wide!). Portions are extremely generous, as are the prices throughout Busters menu. But what caught my eye in reviewing the menu was the overwhelming diversity and variety available. Culinary creations stemming from all coastal fronts of the globe exemplify the legend behind Busters.

As we learned from our Gracious Host, Debi Frumkin (Special Events Director), the menu concept evolved behind the travels of a well respected waterman known throughout many coastal villages as Buster. His love and passion for food, hospitality, and friendship landed him in many restaurant positions as he funded his surfing lifestyle. After many years traveling the globe, and stumbling onto a small "Diamond" find in Africa, Busters dream came to reality as he opened his own restaurant upon returning to Southern California, christening it "Busters Beach House and Long Board Bar.

Topping off our lunch in Long Beach, we shared a dessert creation one would not expect to find within a coastal menu, "Crême Brûlée". Now, don't be swayed by the French aura, this version was infused with "Tahitian Vanilla Beans", and exquisitely crafted. Topped with fresh berries and a sprig of mint, my taste sensations were dancing with glee. After a delightful and informative lunch, "We Were Hooked".

Three weeks to follow, while entertaining three Culinary Executives from Colorado and Chicago, my first intuition for displaying our regions Culinary Diversity was "Busters". Reservations in San Diego are not always necessary, but suggested. As our party awaited seating, we lounged in the Longboard Bar, sampling exotic blends of Rum concoctions, and the famous "Long Board" appetizer platter of Jamaican Voodoo Chicken - Barbados Crab Cakes - Maui Onion Rings - Coconut Shrimp - Tuna Tsunami - and Fried Calamari, all accompanied with an array of dipping sauces such as cilantro scallion mayo and Bloody Mary cocktail sauce. Coupled with the live music, Tiki-Hut style decor, and exquisite view of the channel, the ambiance was set and my guests were intrigued.

Once again, the overwhelming variety offered within Busters menu made for difficult decision making. Once settled, we focused on sampling fare from four different regions of the menu. Our Seafood choosing came from the daily special menu and consisted of "Sesame-Crusted Ono" with jasmine coconut rice and sautéed spring vegetables. Surfing onto the shores of Hawaii, we sampled the Pork Luau with Hawaiian chutney. Venturing onto Thailand, my guest from Chicago and Prominent instructor from the Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Academy, could not stop raving over the Pad Thai Xanadu. Onto the shores of Italy we travel, sampling Cioppino Pasta consisting of a delicate tomato garlic broth swimming with scallops, mussels, fresh fish morsels, clams, shrimp, calamari, atop a bed of al denté linguine. Our final choosing was a traditional "Long Board Pizza" Calypso style. A two foot long "Surfboard" shaped pie topped with Jerk Seasoned Shrimp, Red Onion, Peppers, Avocado, Creole Tomato Sauce, and toasted coconut.

Rounding off a remarkable evening, we delved into sweet delicacies of Tempura Banana Fritters, Almond Tacos with Fruit Salsa, Todos Santos - a glorious wave of white chocolate on a triple chocolate brownie, caramel sauce, whipped cream, and a "Surfer Cookie".

Busters combines its' friendly "Aloha Spirit" with the above in establishing what we consider to be a remarkable contribution to our Culinary Region. We have profound confidence Busters will achieve many goals throughout it's bright future, and look forward to watching their growth.

Special thanks to the staff, both front and back of house, for their dedicated devotion to customer service and consistency in all they do. We'll show our deep appreciation by returning again, and again.

Wayne Hardin - Editor in Chief
SoCalFood

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BUSTER’S BEACH HOUSE & LONGBOARD BAR

Go to Elmer Dills Restaurant Reviews Here

Reviewed by: Judy Kilpatrick

Few waterside views are as enjoyable as the sweep of Alamitos Bay and the channel going out from there to the ocean. Sitting in Buster’s in the early evening, when sailors are coming home from the sea, it’s like a fascinating freeway of boats from small to huge, displayed against the glimmering sunset. Buster’s sits smack on the channel, and almost every seat in the long narrow rooms enjoys the view. The place didn’t capture the fancy well enough when it was the undistinguished Jolly Roger, but Aloha Restaurants has transformed it, not only the ambience but also the food. It’s now on my Long Beach ten–best list.

The story line tells us that Buster has traveled far and wide and brought back his tropical favorites from seacoasts around the world. The ambience, therefore, is the beach/surfing look. Surfboards hang over the bar and on the walls. The island bar is surrounded by the kind of seating you’d find in the Virgin Islands. The young servers are in Hawaiian shirts. And the dining area carries over the motif. Incidentally, there is live entertainment and much noise in the bar, but you have a choice if you like to be able to converse. Because it’s long and narrow, you can elect to sit at the farthest remove where it’s quieter.

Buster, of course, is mythical (the claim that he brought back mismatched silverware from his travels is good for a laugh), but his creators have, indeed, brought together an eclectic menu that reads like a tropical travel brochure – Baja lobster quesadilla, Kiluaea onion rings, Jamaican jerk chicken, Balinese babyback ribs, or a Fisherman's seafood stew called Half Moon Bay Cioppino. There are appetizers like coconut shrimp, chicken on a skewer, Thai salad, sashimi, to name a few, most in quantities to feed a half–dozen. There are fun pizzas to share, served on either a long or a short board, with a thin, thin, crispy crust (shaped like a surfboard naturally) and holding, if you want, a pepperoni and mushroom, a Thai flavored, and a shrimp, three different tasty pizzas on one board.

The house specialties I’ve tried are all excellent. In fact, the big surprise at Buster’s is that all the ambience is matched by fine food.The house specialties include a generous pork luau 7–hours marinated in banana leaves with Hawaiian chutney and Jasmine rice.The fish and chips, made with Alaskan halibut, is the best I’ve found in these parts, so good I have to wrestle with myself to order something else. The prime rib you should skip, you can get that anywhere. Two desserts are a must. A fruit fantasia arrives on a short board: sweet flat bread covered with small pieces of fresh fruit topped with a mango glaze and sifted confectioner’s sugar. It’s enough for four to six. Another don’t miss is Todos Santos. Picture a thin white chocolate wave behind a large moist triple chocolate brownie with whipped cream foam surrounded by caramel and chocolate sauce, and all finished with a surfer cookie. Could anything possibly be more decadent to wind up your visit to Buster’s?

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